Two Simple Ways to Unburden Yourself of Tomatoes

It is the end of an unseasonably cool summer and the tomato bounty has come a bit late but is a bounty nonetheless. I am all too happy to scoop up what I can of that bounty to eat fresh everyday (I work tomatoes into two meals sometimes), and to preserve as much as I can for impending leaner times, when I'm wrapped in scarves and roasting root vegetables, longing for the ray of sunshine that is a warm summer tomato, sliced and salted, juices running down my chin!

Here are two very simple recipes to help you clear your counters and windowsills and ease the panic caused by the thought of letting just one of those gorgeous tomatoes rot and go to waste (think of the farmer! the wasted photosynthesis!! the hours of weeding and wrestling tomato cages!). Start with delicious tomatoes, add simple ingredients with minimal work (ok, sort of minimal) and you can enjoy summery goodness just a little while longer.

Oven-Dried Tomatoes

Fresh from the vine Roma tomatoes (as fresh as possible, you get the picture)

Garlic cloves

Fresh thyme, rosemary, basil, sage, oregano

Good-quality olive oil

Salt and freshly cracked pepper

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Wash tomatoes and set in colander to drain.

2. Peel garlic cloves and slice as thinly as possible (is it Goodfellas where the Italian mob boss slices garlic with a razor blade in prison?). Wash herbs.

3. Trim the tomatoes of their step and slice in half lengthwise. Place skin side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle each tomato with salt and cracked pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Place 1-2 slivers of garlic on each tomato half. Top halves with an herb sprig or leaf (I don't usually use two herbs on the same tomato half but who says you can't?).

4. Place in oven and bake for 4-5 hours. I would tell you to ignore the tomatoes at this point but you won't be able to because your house will be filled with the smells of garlic caramelizing!

5. Once tomatoes look slightly shriveled and have lost about 1/3 of their size remove them from the oven to let cool. To store you can layer them between parchment or wax paper in a reuseable container (if you plan to ea

t within a week) or store them in a sterilized jar covered in olive oil (for a longer shelf time).

To serve: whole or chopped on toast, with fresh ricotta or parmesean; chopped and tossed with pasta and the aformentioned cheeses; on a sandwich (rare roast beef and arugula?? a sophisticated griddled cheese?); as an appetizer with proscuitto on crostini...

On to the next.

A recipe by Donna Hay. She just totally rocks and I have always had great success with her beautiful, simple recipes. They call her the British Martha Stewart but I think she's better.

Roast Tomato, Chili and Balsamic Relish

6 tomatoes, halved (I used a mixture of roma and better boy)

2 Tbs olive oil

3 Tbs balsamic vinegar

cracked black pepper

1 Tbs olive oil, extra

1 onion, chopped

3-4 red chilies (I used thai red chilis), seeded and chopped

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar, extra

2 Tbs brown sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet, cut side up, and drizzle with the oil and vinegar and sprinkle with pepper. Bake for 30 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft and browned on the edges. Cool and roughly chop.

2. Place the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and chilies and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the onion is soft. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the extra balsamic vinegar, the sugar and salt and simmer 15-20 minutes or until thickened.

Done!

Store in sterilized jars for up to 3 months.

Serve as a condiment to grilled meats or vegetables or add to shell beans as you cook them for a yummy bakes-bean-like twist!

Seriously, both or these recipes are just fantastic and would make great gifts as that treasure jar you keep in your fridge and pull out to make a weeknight dinner or mundane lunch special!

Cantelope White Gazpacho

Isn't actually white. More of a light shade of apricot, and a color I saw in the sunset minutes after eating this delicious soup!
The lovely melon I used was grown near Carondelet, Illinois and perfumed my kitchen with it's sweet, musky aroma as soon as I cut it open. They say the best melons should be heavy for their size, betraying the amount of water and sugar contained within their tender flesh. The skin should be firm but not rock hard, and should be fragrant when you get your nose up close and take a deep breath. These rules are not hard and firm, as I have picked a bad melon or two in my time (nothing more disappointing than a mealy, mushy watermelon, I tell ya), so trust your instincts and know you're taking a gamble, but one that could pay dividends!
This was my first attempt at white gazpacho. I've seen quite a few recipes for it, and I followed what I determined to be the basics: country bread, blanched almonds, garlic, water, and a smidge of sherry vinegar combined with a fruit (sometimes white grapes) or pale vegetable (generally steamed cauliflower). Never one to stick to basics, I eyed my tender cantelope and imagined it whirled together with the creamy almond/water slurry, it's sweet, musky flavors challenged by the sherry vinegar, at once light and thick and cool.
A late summer sunset, indeed!
To have some fun with contrasting textures, I made a garnish of toasted breadcrumbs and slivered almonds and also salted chopped cucumber. It sent my head spinning and my spoon swirling!

4 cups fresh cantelope, cut into large cubes
2 small or one large clove garlic, roughly chopped
2 small or one large shallot, minced
1 cup cold water
1 cup plus 1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds
1 cup white bread cubes, crusts removed (preferrably a baguette or country bread)
2 tsp. Sherry vinegar
2-3 tsp. agave nectar (depending on the sweetness of your melon)
2 Tbs olive oil
garnish/topping:
1/2 c. large bread crumbs (from the same bread you used for the soup)
1/2 cup cucmber, peeled, seeded and cut small
salt/pepper
spanish smoked paprika (optional)

1. Heat 1 Tbs olive oil over low heat in a small saucepan. Add garlic and cook 2-3 minutes until softened but not browned. Let cool.
2. Add water, shallots, sherry vinegar and almonds to blender. Puree until smooth. Add cooled garlic and oil, melon, and agave. Puree again until smooth. Add remaining Tbs of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Chill for one hour, while you make the garnish.
3. For the garnish: place chopped cucumber in a small bowl and cover with salt. Chill while you make the soup. When you are ready to serve the soup, rinse and drain the cucumbers. In the same saucepan you heated the garlic/oil in, toast the breadcrumbs and almond slivers together, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a pinch of smoked paprika until browned and crunchy.

Pour a generous scoop into a lovely bowl and top with the warm breadcrumb mixture and a sprinkling of cucmber. Amarinated calamari (or bean) salad and a hunk of crusty bread would make excellent serving friends!

Oh but I do go much too long between posts...
I have missed writing about spring's bounty! about strawberries I picked myself and the sorbet that followed (now consumed)! But I will not miss writing about asparagus! I have been told by my friends at Scharf Farms that their vitamin-logged tender green stalks will be available for one more blessed week. I have eaten a bounty of Scarf Farms' asparagus this season and although I will likely never tire of it's sweet green flavor, I was looking for a new way to enjoy it last night. To add a new flavor or dimension via sauce or saute. Leafing through Marcella Hazan's "Essential of Italian Cooking", I found a recipe for an anchovy vinaigrette that grabbed my attention by virtue of its simplicity and availability of ingredients.
I had already planned on making Buttered Herb Orzo (recipe below) and grilled chicken salsicca, I just needed that interesting extra flavor that would take the asparagus from my grill pan and humble kitchen to the arbor-covered outdoor farm table of my fantasy estate in Umbira.

And it did.

Warm Anchovy Dressing
Adapted from "Essentials of Italian Cooking" by Marcella Hazan

2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
anchovy paste
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

Warm olive in a small saucepan over low-medium heat. Add 1 - 1 1/2 inches of anchovy paste from the tube and 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes. Continue heating until anchpvy paste dissolves. Add minced garlic and thyme leaves and swirl to distribute. After 30 seconds turn off heat and cover. The garlic will finish cooking and all the flavors will come together as the oil cools.
Serve as a drizzle over grilled asparagus.

* This sauce adds a tangy, earthy note and a lot of depth and would be delicious on fish, sauteed greens, or anything that years for a little more "meatiness". You can adjust the amount of anchovy paste to taste.


Now on to the rest...

Supremely Herbed Orzo
or
All Herbs I Could Find in My Yard/Fridge with Orzo and Liberal Amounts of Butter

1 - 1 1/2 cups Orzo, cooked according to package instructions
1 cup chopped fresh herbs (I happened to have sweet basil, greek basil, mint, lemon thyme, and oregano)
1 cup chopped fresh arugula
1/2 cup chopped fresh spinach
1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, minced
2 big Tbs unsalted butter (yes mom, i used that much butter for real! can you believe it!?)
2 tsp olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Wash, dry and chop herbs before measuring them. I pile them all together on my cutting board and run my knofe through, then pile them back up and chop again, repeating until they are in (fairly) equally small pieces. It takes a bit of time but is actually very soothing as your knife makes a nice sound as it runs through the piles of leaves. I also recommend a very sharp knife so your cuts are as clean as possible which will help keep the essential oils in the herbs and not on your cutting board.
2. Heat olive oil and 1 Tbs butter in a large saucepan until butter foams. Add garlic and saute briefly. Add herbs, spinach and arugula. Saute 1 - 2 minutes or until herbs/leaves begin to wilt but are still bright green. Add orzo and 2nd Tbs butter. Turn off heat. Stir thoroughly, as the herbs will tend to cling together for fear of distribution! Liberally salt and pepper. Taste. Salt some more if you're like me.
3. Serve it up, topped with a little crumbled goat cheese, feta or parmesean. mmmmm. butter.....

An Early Mother's Day Gift, a few months late!

This post is dedicated to my dear sweet mum, who has been waiting patiently for this recipe, ever since I wowed her with it last summer.
This is a go-to meal without a doubt. It is easily customizeable to whatever season or state of the produce drawer, provided you have a few staples. In the recipe I will include a few options/substitutions you might try and please feel free to go with your whims here.
So here it is, Mum, Pasta Puttanesca! Eat it outside and you could call it al fresca! Ha!


1 can good-quality albacore tuna (the albacore is a must), drained
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 can tomato chunks ( I used san marzano but you can use something more conventional)
1 -2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1 large shallot, minced
1/2 bulb fennel, sliced thin
1-2 carrots, chopped quite small
mixed olives (I used a mix of kalamata, green, and oil cured), sliced lengthwise
a splash of red wine (I save the bottles I don't finish in the fridge to use for cooking)
olive oil
2 cups penne pasta (I use whole wheat but semolina works fine, too, also rigatoni or linguini would work well), cooked according to package instructions
1 cup fresh chopped parsley

1. Heat 2 Tbs. oilve oil in a large skillet. Add garlic and shallot, keeping the heat low enough that the garlic doesn't turn brown. Add the fennel and carrots and saute until the vegetables begin to sweat and soften. Add salt and freshly ground pepper, saute a few minutes more. Add the tomatoes and most of the tomato juices, 1 Tbs of orange zest, a splash of red wine, and the juice of half the orange (you can squeeze the juice directly into the sauce if it is seedless), and about 1/2 cup chopped parsley. Stir and set to simmer for 20 - 25 minutes. Taste for seasoning. The sauce should be sweet and thick with a hint of orange. If the sauce is not thick enough, simmer another 5 minutes. If it is too tangy you can add more orange juice and even a pinch of sugar.
2. Add the drained tuna, olives, and the remaining parsley to the sauce, along with the cooked pasta. Stir to coat. Serve! Easy!

Inspiration Returns in a Fuzz-Lined Beanpod

I felt like it had been a long time since the thrill of kitchen inspiration had blessed me with a visit. Like I'd eaten too much leftover soup and meals grabbed on the go. Thankfully I saw the light (literally, in the form of the sun, finally illuminating the flowers and tree buds), and felt the offer of spring on the 40 mph winds that seem to be incessantly blowing through my fair city. Adding to my springtime bliss was a blessing of fresh fava beans in the produce section of the international grocery. Californians may take fresh favas for granted but we here in the midwest have to grab 'em when we can and commit their green, marshy flavor to our palettes' memories as they are not so easy to come by (or to prepare for that matter). I for one enjoy the challenge of shelling any bean and so don't mind the double-shelling favas require. Give me a seat on the porch and a bucket of beans, some iced tea (or beer) and I'll be quite content.
Digression!
So, Fava beans and mint and pecorino are a classic combination of springtime flavors. I decided to add some shittake mushrooms; I have been thinking about marinated mushroom salads lately and I like the contrast of dark, woodsy mushroom flavor against the bright green bean flavors, to say nothing of the grassy, buttery zip of the crumbled pecorino. Tie it all together with a simple dressing of mint, honey, and lemon juice, toss, marinate for a bit, and there you have it. I could parallel a spring day here: bare brown branches represented by the mushrooms, dark greening grass of fava beans, lemon sunshine, and tender green leaf buds as mint. Corny?
Yummy.
Fava Bean and Shittake Salad

1 pound Fresh Fava Beans, peeled (If I had to substitute something here I think I'd reach for shelled edamame)
1/2 # fresh Shittake mushrooms
2 oz. pecorino romano, crumbled
fresh mint
honey
lemon
1 tsp. fresh garlic, minced
olive oil

1. To prepare the fava beans: open the shiny green pods and collect the beans in a bowl. Blanch the beans in boiling salted water for 1-2 minutes, then plunge into an ice water bath. Drain. Use your thumbnail to puncture the light green skin surrounding the bean, then give a little squeeze. The innermost and true fava bean should slip right out.
2. Clean, destem, and cut the shittake mushrooms into about 1/5 th inch slices. Saute in a tablespoon or two of hot olive oil, turning after few minutes and making sure all the mushroom slices get browned on both sides. Set aside.
3. While the mushrooms cook, (or better yet, before you clean the mushrooms) combine the garlic with 1-2 Tbs olive oil in the bowl you will mix the salad in. Let the garlic rest in the oil until you are ready to assemble the salad. When you are ready to add all the other ingredients, use a fork or spoon to pull most of the garlic out of the oil. (The garlic will have lent some of its flavors to the oil, leaving you with a hint of garlic- I use this technique often when making dressings)
4. Whisk 1-2 tsp. honey and the juice of one lemon into the garlic-infused olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Taste. Add more honey if the lemon juice is too pithy and overpowering. Add the shelled fava beans, sauteed mushrooms, and pecorino crumbles* into the dressing. Add 1/2 cup chopped mint and toss it all together. Taste again for zip, sweetness, and seasoning. Let rest for an hour or more before serving for tastiest results.
*to crumble the cheese, set it out and let it come to room temperature, then poke with a fork and give a little twist. The cheese will break apart into natural chunks, which will look natural and add an interesting texture to the salad.

Addendum. Is that the right word?

So, when I served the apricot soup I just posted (boasted) about I served it with a refreshing crunchy little salad. I hesitated to blog about it only because I hesitated to make it in the first place- enough time to throw it together before the soup is done? no. yes! save it for later. Toss it (in the dressing, not the trash) and serve it! umm...

Ok so I went through with it and was glad I did. The soup and roasted vegetables are fine alone, but a little refreshing salad bite between warm savory bites is good too. I could have served it as a first course but my timing was off.

About Chinese black radishes- first of all, if you can't find them in your local international grocery you can substitute daikon or regular red radishes. I find black radishes to be less spicy and more bitter than the

 red radishes you are used to getting at the grocery or farmer's market. They are considered to be medicinal by many Asian cultures and are said to treat gall bladder and liver problems. Hungry yet? Just know that black radishes are crunchy, spicy/bitter like a good strong mustard and very refreshing. Salt mellows their flavor, and I mix them with shredded apple and orange juice in this salad to tame them a bit.

This salad would also be delicious on top of crostini spread with ripe avocado.

Black Radish and Apple Salad with Orange-Sage Vinaigrette

2 black radishes, peeled*

1 apple, cored and quartered (choose a sweeter, firm variety)

1 orange, washed

1 tbs fresh minced sage

2 tsp honey

olive oil

salt and pepper

1. Zest 1-2 tsp of the orange into a large bowl. Cut the orange in half and squeeze about 1/4 cup of the juice in to the bowl, discarding any seeds. add honey and sage and a sprinkle of salt. Stir until the honey and salt are dissolved. Add 2 tsp. olive oil and stir.

2.Using a box grater or hand held grater, shred the radish and apple onto the vinaigrette and toss. Taste for sweetness, adding a little more honey if desired. (Best if made a couple of hours prior to serving so the flavors can come together)

*note: if you are using conventional radishes you do not need to peel them or shred them; you can simply cut them into thin slices, as they are much more tender than the black radishes.

A persistent challenge, a quiet call to arms.

Such was the presence of a package of dried apricots in my pantry. They were a little drier and more leathery than the dried apricots I prefer to snack on, but a little too orange in the dark of my pantry to ignore. I had a thought: a warm savory soup. I googled "apricot soup" and found a few recipes, mostly armenian in origin, that paired said dried apricots with red lentils and a few spices, some adding a lemon squeeze or dollop of yogurt at the end. I wanted to use buttermilk, thinking how nice the mellow tang would be with the rich sweetness of the meaty apricots. If it were summer I would probably have made an apricot-buttermilk sorbet but I'm glad for the winter's-lure of the soup pot, because this dish is a winner. 

Also on hand that night was a head of cauliflower, some eggplant rescued from the produce bargain-bin, and a jumbo-sized can of chickpeas. And some Chinese black radishes, which I may get to later...

Anyhow, the roasted vegetables (tossed with cumin, toasted 'til crunchy) were the perfect sidekick for the smooth, mellow soup. Don't be afraid of a little fruit in your soup bowl, it's better than a little soup in your fruit bowl, right?

Ha!

Apricot-Buttermilk Soup for a Thursday, for Sharing.

(adapted from The Soup Peddler's Slow and Difficult Soups by David Ansel)

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

3 small carrots, peeled and chopped

2-3 tsp. dried cumin

1 1/2 cups red lentils

3 cups vegetable broth

2 cups water

6-8 ounces dried apricots, chopped

1 cup buttermilk

salt!

1. Heat olive oil in your favorite soup pot. Add onion and carrot and cumin and saute 8-10 minutes, or until the onions begin to turn translucent. Cover and cook for ten minutes.

2. Add the broth, water, lentils and all but about 1/2 cup of the apricots. Bring to a boil and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 20 minutes. (Put the vegetables in the oven as the soup comes to a boil if you are making them.) Add the remaining apricots and remove from heat.

3. Puree the soup in batches in a blender, being careful not to puree more than 3 cups at a time so the consistency stays smooth, and pouring the pureed soup into another large pot. Add buttermilk and stir, taste for salt. reheat gently to serve. Top with roasted chickpeas or homemade pita crisps/croutons for garnish and crunch factor.

Then,

You must make these roasted vegetables! So easy, so tasty! Eat with couscous and a dollop of yogurt, on a spinach salad with orange-cumin vinaigrette and feta, or as a simple side.

Cumin-Roasted Vegetables (especially cauliflower)

1 head cauliflower, washed and cut into 1 inch florets

1 eggplant, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes

1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

olive oil

ground cumin

salt and pepper

1. Heat oven to 375. Put vegetables and chickpeas in a large bowl and drizzle with 1-2 Tbs. olive oil. Sprinkle with cumin, a good dose of salt, and freshly ground pepper. Toss until oil and spices are well distributed over vegetables.

2. Spray a baking sheet or two with nonstick spray and pour on the seasoned veg. Spread the vegetables around the pan evenly, making sure they aren't piled on top of each other (the more surface area of the vegetable that is on the searing hot pan, the more caramelization and crunch you'll get). Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until cauliflower is browning on the pan-side and chickpeas are tanned and toasty. Serve warm.