Sprouts to Spite the Cold

... with flavors brighter than any feeble light the winter sun casts!

Staying indoors too much, saturating my mind-palate with flavors and ideas for foods, feeling mostly well but not my usual sprightly self... it must still be winter. January at that. How to snap out of my half-funk? Vegetables. Clean tasting with textures that challenge. Flavors invoking warm colors and foreign soils. It must be Indian, for what could be brighter than turmeric and ginger? Warmer than mustard seed and chile? Feel cleaner and healthier than steaming basmati rice and cilantro?
While hungrily leafing through Monica Bhide's book, Modern Spice, I found a recipe that brought together not only the flavors I craved, but that would also make excellent use of a bag of Brussels sprouts and a couple of misplaced turnips that had been languishing in my vegetable drawer for longer than I care to admit.
I steamed some basmati, chopped fresh mint and cilantro, and roasted tofu cubes in a paste of chickpea flour and olive oil for a little protein to round out the meal. It all came together in under an hour and filled my bowl and belly with enough warmth to get me through another few days of deep winter.


Brussels Sprouts, Leeks, and Curry Leaves
from Modern Spice

2 Tbs. Vegetable oil
1 tsp. black mustard seeds (not yellow American mustard seeds)
10-15 fresh curry leaves (I didn't have these so I omitted them and added a teaspoon of curry powder instead- not at all the same, but I was in a pinch! next time I'll get the real thing.)
2 whole dried red chilies, broken (I used one fresh chile because that's what I had)
15 Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut into fourths (about 1 pound)
2 medium leeks, white and green parts only, chopped
2 medium turnips, cubed (my addition)
3 Tbsp. chopped toasted peanuts
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. red chile powder
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. salt to start

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil shimmers, add the mustard seeds, cooking until the seeds sizzle and pop. Add the curry leaves (if you are lucky enough to have them), chilies, Brussels sprouts, leeks and turnips, if using.
2. Saute for 5 to 6 minutes, until the vegetables begin to brown.
3. Add the turmeric, chile powder, coriander and salt. Stir thoroughly and cook for another 2 minutes.
4. Add a tablespoon or two of water, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for 8-10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Top with the peanuts and taste for salt (amazingly, I found I didn't need to add any extra salt). Serve over rice.
Delicious!

Side note: when I ate the leftovers the next night I made another of Monica's recipes, these Besan Crepes, which turned out to be the chickpea pancakes of my dreams. I'm dying to make them again to share with my chickpea-lovin' friends so let's make dinner together soon!

Do I have permission to gloss over the fact that I have not posted in waaaaaaaaaay too long and just pop up a little post here like it was a regular occurrence? Please? I won't even attempt to make excuses about being busy during the holidays or mention that I barely cooked a decent meal the entire month of December (thank you, Trader Joe's soup in a carton, for getting me through the holidays). Fine then, it's settled. Time for a blog post!

Let's start things off with one of the simplest pleasures of winter cooking: roasted vegetables. The same basic treatment can be applied to hardy winter vegetables and fruits and makes for a delicious side or salad topping or soup base. Start with a selection of sweet potatoes, turnips, butternut squash, rutabagas, apples, quince, new potatoes, celery root, yams, carrots, onions... pick a few that look good to you and get to peeling and dicing! Add some winter-y herbs for flavor bonus (rosemary, sage, thyme) if you'd like, but good ol' olive oil and salt and pepper is really all you need.

Here's a basic recipe to get you started.

Sage-Roasted Winter Vegetables

2 purple yams

1 sweet potato

3 medium turnips

1 quince (substitute 1 granny smith apple)

8 - 10 sage leaves

olive oil

salt and pepper

1. Peel all vegetables. Cut into 3/4 inch cubes. The more evenly cut the vegetables are, the more evenly they'll cook, this is the only semi-difficult step in this recipe. Place cubed vegetables in a large bowl and set aside.

2. Heat 3 Tbs olive oil over medium-high heat in a small skillet. Test to see if the oil is hot enough by putting a pinch of a sage leaf in. If it sizzles, the oil is ready to fry the sage leaves in. Add the sage leaves to the skillet, 3 or 4 at a time, turning after 30-40 seconds. Continue cooking on the second side for another 30 seconds, then pull from the oil and place on a paper towel-lined plate. Save for later.

3. Pour the now sage infused olive oil over the vegetables in the bow. Add 2-3 tsp. kosher salt and quite a few grinds of fresh pepper. Toss the vegetables in the oil and spread evenly on a baking sheet (lined with parchment or sprayed with pan spray). It is important not to crowd the vegetables or have them piled on top of one another, otherwise you won't achieve the crispy edges and browned skin you desire!

4. Place the pan in a 350 degree preheated oven. I like to put an ovenproof dish filled with about an inch of water in the oven when roasting- I find it gently steams the vegetables so they cook through and you don't end up with a caramelized outside and crunchy inside. Roast for 20-25 minutes, stirring with a spatula after about 15 minutes. Cooking time will vary depending on the size and density of your vegetables. Test with a fork for tenderness.

5. To serve, top with the fried sage leaves, crumbled, and a little more salt and pepper. So good!

As Promised, More Apple Ideas!

This apple-rific recipe is super easy and takes only minutes, minutes I say, to throw together and slide in the oven. They travel well and are an ideal treat to serve as a light dessert or snack with tea. The thinly sliced apples conceal a mixture of crystallized ginger, toasted pecans, brown sugar and spices. I chose to mix the varieties of apples I used not only for looks, but to get a nice contrast in flavors between the sweetness of a Jonathan and the tart Granny Smith. You can use all one kind of apple if its easiest, but I recommend mixing it up! you might also experiment with omitting some of the sugar and spices and instead use a sharp cheddar cheese as a nice surprise.

Apple-Puff Pastries

6-8 squares (5 inch) frozen puff pastry, thawed (or thaw one sheet puff pastry and cut into squares)

1/3 c. light brown sugar

1/2 cup pecans, toasted and chopped

1-2 Tbs crystallized ginger

cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice

butter, melted

6 or so apples: Jonathan, Granny Smith, Fuji, etc.

1. Heat oven to 350. Peel Granny Smiths and core; slice into 1/8 inch (very thin) slices. Leave the skins on some of the other apples for contrast. Core and slice thinly, set aside.

2. In a small bowl mix the brown sugar, chopped pecans, a few dashes of each spice, and the ginger. Place puff pastry squares on a parchment lined baking sheet. Brush each with melted butter and don't be shy. Sprinkle each square with 1-2 Tbsp. sugar mixture. Top with apple slices, starting at the back of the pastry and layering forward, alternating apple varieties.

3. Bake for 15- 20 minutes or until puff pastry is puffed and gold

en-brown on the edges. Cool completely if you wish to cut them in half before serving. They are good at room temperature but would also be great

hot out of the oven and topped with vanilla ice cream (or cinnamon!) or whipped cream.

On the last of the truly warm October days I hopped in the car with some dear friends and headed out to Mills Apple Farm in Marine, Illinois, with the intention of picking, munching on, and getting inspired to cook with oodles of apples. A bumpy ride through the orchard found us ducking under and climbing on apple trees, filling our bags with the tastiest, crispest Jonagolds, Granny Smiths, Gingercrisps, and Jonathan apples. When we weighed up at the country store we found we had bagged over 30 pounds of fruit! Attribute our overzealous picking to the intoxicating weather, the endless rows of picture-perfect fruit-laden trees, or just our healthy appetites, it didn't matter. We all knew we were set on apples for a while. Nothing like being overwhelmed with goodness, right? So with a box of fresh apple cider doughnuts nestled in the console for a snack on the ride home we hit the road back to the city and to dinner.

While picking apples in the bucolic Illinois countryside was absolutely lovely, my favorite part of the day was (big surprise) dinner. Not just because it was delicious in every possible way, but because it was the product of sharing resources and skills between friends. As one who usually cooks alone and for one, the experience of sharing a kitchen and a good meal is a true treat.

I grabbed a few things from my fridge on my way to my Nick and Amber's house: new potatoes from my dad's garden, three bulbs of baby fennel from the farmer's market, and fresh shiitake mushrooms. I had a few ideas circulating in my head but knew I'd appreciate the suggestions and perspectives of my kitchen-mates (read: I am terrible at making decisions and relish the opportunity to avoid such problems). To roast the fennel with the potatoes and mushrooms? Throw in the apples too? Or to make a warm slaw with the fennel and a few tart apples to top the pork chops Nick was grilling? Lucky for me, Amber is good at making food decisions and sticking to them and she was enthused about the slaw. I set to work trimming and chopping, Amber stood stove-side and flavored and sauteed the slaw as I passed her the basic ingredients, which she deftly augmented with ingredients from the pantry.

Framboise was sipped, the grill was fired up, the potatoes and mushrooms were blanketed in a snowfall of finely grated Romano, baby Emerson nibbled cheese and kept mom on her toes...

And dinner was served!

Apple-Fennel Slaw:

olive oil

3 bulbs baby fennel, or 1 large, diced; chop 2 Tbsp. fennel fronds and reserve

2 tart apples (we used Granny Smith), diced

1/2 cup diced yellow onion

1-2 slices turkey bacon

honey

cider vinegar

s+p

1. Heat 2 tsp. oil in a lrge saute pan. Add bacon (whole slice) when oil shimmers, fry bacon until crispy and the fat has been rendered out. Pull from the pan and set to drain on a paper towel. Chop when cool. Add onion to the hot pan, saute 2-4 minutes or until onion begins to appear translucent. Add fennel and garlic, seasoning with salt and pepper, and cover, sweating 10 minutes, or until fennel is tender but still slightly crisp.

2. Uncover pan and add the apple, a drizzle of honey and 2 Tbsp. cider vinegar. Saute 5-7 minutes more, or until vegetables are glazed. Taste for seasoning. If too tart, add a bit more honey. If too sweet, add a bit more vinegar and pepper. Stir in fennel fronds. Done!!

Roasted Potatoes with Mushrooms:

Mixed new potatoes: I used a mixture of baby yukon golds and red potatoes, with an estimated 4-5 small potatoes per person

Fresh shiitake mushrooms (about 1/2 pound)

olive oil

1 Tbsp. fresh thyme and/or sage, chopped fine

Romano for grating

Salt and Pepper

1. Prehaeat oven to 375. Wash and trim potatoes. Using a sharp paring knife, cut potatoes in halves or quarters (a little larger than bite sized) and put in a large bowl. using a damp paper towel, clean mushrooms of any dirt. Trip stems and cut mushrooms in half. Place in the bowl with the potatoes. Drizzle potatoes and mushrooms with 3 Tbsp. olive oil, toss to coat and spread evenly over a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. Roast Potatoes and onions for 20-25 minutes, stirring once or twice. When potatoes are tender, pull the pan from the oven and liberally shower with grated romano and chopped herbs. Roast 5-7 minutes more, until cheese begins to turn golden in spots.

Its Never Too Late (in the season) to Grill!

I worked in catering for a while and we would have the grill fired up on our small back patio until it was so cold the gas burners couldn't force the temperature of the grill up high enough to cook a mushroom or a shrimp, so don't tell me grilling season is over! Don't tell me! Grilling into the evening at this time of year may require a headlamp or more oil for your tiki torches but so what! It's worth it. I know you agree.

One super-cool-food-trick I mastered this summer is grilling flatbreads and pizzas. Most people I talk to have "always wanted to try" cooking pizzas on the grill but seem a little hesitant at the idea of throwing perfectly soft pizza dough over a charred metal grate hovering just inches from sinister flames and glowing coals. Seems like it would fall through the grate and to its demise-- and make a mess and you'd end up hungry and pizza-less, right? Well, it's just not like that. The dough is sturdy enough to hold up for the few minutes it takes to form a nice crust before you flip it. phew.

The key here is prep work and proper flame. You want to have all your ingredients at the ready, tools, too, and to make sure the heat on the grill is at a medium. Otherwise, it's a snap! And oh so very tasty. So very very tasty. I will give a list of possible topping combinations for inspiration, or you can leave them plain and serve alongside dips, relishes, and cheese boards.

Grilled Flatbreads for the Apprehensive

1 1/4 c. warm water
1 tsp. active dry yeast
3 c. whole wheat flour (or all purpose or a blend)
2 tsp. kosher salt
5 tbs. olive oil (give or take)
Spice, herbs, seeds (If you are making flatbreads- I used thyme and toasted sesame seeds)
Pizza toppings, prepared in advance (see notes at the end of the recipe)

1. Place 1 1/4 cups warm water in small bowl. Sprinkle yeast over. Let stand until yeast dissolves, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk 3 cups flour and salt in large bowl. Add yeast mixture and 2 tablespoons oil. Using wooden spoon, mix until sticky dough forms. Turn out onto floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic, sprinkling with more flour if very sticky, about 6 minutes. (Dough will to look smooth)

2. Oil (or spray with Pam) a large bowl. Add dough; turn to coat. Cover with a clean dish towel. Let dough rise until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. Gently "punch" down dough (to deflate it); divide into 6 pieces. Shape each piece into ball. Roll out each on lightly floured surface to 7x4-inch oval or misshapen island-looking thing. (nothing wrong with the rustic look)

3. Get your grill ready! (medium heat).Brush one side of rolled dough with oil and carefully transfer to the grill, oil side down. You can work two to three at a time, depending on the size of your grill. Grill each flatbread until cooked through (it will feel firm) and golden, 2-4 minutes. For pizza-style: After you flip the bread add your toppings and shut the lid on the grill for 2-4 more minutes. Done! For flatbread-style: After you flip the bread brush with oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, seeds, herbs, etc. Transfer hot flatbreads/pizzas to a cutting board to cut into wedges and serve.

Note: As with pancakes, the first attempt is usually not the prettiest, so please try one at a time before you go crazy and so you can find your pace and technique. Also this will give you the opportunity to taste test the fist finished product, which is of utmost importance!

Toppings. you say? I'll show you toppings!!!!
- thinly sliced, roasted sweet potatoes, rosemary, parmesean or crispy proscuitto
- grilled, chopped eggplant, parsley, tahini drizzle and smoke paprika
- bleu cheese, toasted walnuts, sauteed rapini
- grilled zucchini slices, ricotta salata or feta, fresh greens before serving
- grilled mushrooms, fontina cheese, extra cracked black pepper
- now tell me your ideas!

Two Simple Ways to Unburden Yourself of Tomatoes

It is the end of an unseasonably cool summer and the tomato bounty has come a bit late but is a bounty nonetheless. I am all too happy to scoop up what I can of that bounty to eat fresh everyday (I work tomatoes into two meals sometimes), and to preserve as much as I can for impending leaner times, when I'm wrapped in scarves and roasting root vegetables, longing for the ray of sunshine that is a warm summer tomato, sliced and salted, juices running down my chin!

Here are two very simple recipes to help you clear your counters and windowsills and ease the panic caused by the thought of letting just one of those gorgeous tomatoes rot and go to waste (think of the farmer! the wasted photosynthesis!! the hours of weeding and wrestling tomato cages!). Start with delicious tomatoes, add simple ingredients with minimal work (ok, sort of minimal) and you can enjoy summery goodness just a little while longer.

Oven-Dried Tomatoes

Fresh from the vine Roma tomatoes (as fresh as possible, you get the picture)

Garlic cloves

Fresh thyme, rosemary, basil, sage, oregano

Good-quality olive oil

Salt and freshly cracked pepper

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Wash tomatoes and set in colander to drain.

2. Peel garlic cloves and slice as thinly as possible (is it Goodfellas where the Italian mob boss slices garlic with a razor blade in prison?). Wash herbs.

3. Trim the tomatoes of their step and slice in half lengthwise. Place skin side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle each tomato with salt and cracked pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Place 1-2 slivers of garlic on each tomato half. Top halves with an herb sprig or leaf (I don't usually use two herbs on the same tomato half but who says you can't?).

4. Place in oven and bake for 4-5 hours. I would tell you to ignore the tomatoes at this point but you won't be able to because your house will be filled with the smells of garlic caramelizing!

5. Once tomatoes look slightly shriveled and have lost about 1/3 of their size remove them from the oven to let cool. To store you can layer them between parchment or wax paper in a reuseable container (if you plan to ea

t within a week) or store them in a sterilized jar covered in olive oil (for a longer shelf time).

To serve: whole or chopped on toast, with fresh ricotta or parmesean; chopped and tossed with pasta and the aformentioned cheeses; on a sandwich (rare roast beef and arugula?? a sophisticated griddled cheese?); as an appetizer with proscuitto on crostini...

On to the next.

A recipe by Donna Hay. She just totally rocks and I have always had great success with her beautiful, simple recipes. They call her the British Martha Stewart but I think she's better.

Roast Tomato, Chili and Balsamic Relish

6 tomatoes, halved (I used a mixture of roma and better boy)

2 Tbs olive oil

3 Tbs balsamic vinegar

cracked black pepper

1 Tbs olive oil, extra

1 onion, chopped

3-4 red chilies (I used thai red chilis), seeded and chopped

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar, extra

2 Tbs brown sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet, cut side up, and drizzle with the oil and vinegar and sprinkle with pepper. Bake for 30 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft and browned on the edges. Cool and roughly chop.

2. Place the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and chilies and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the onion is soft. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the extra balsamic vinegar, the sugar and salt and simmer 15-20 minutes or until thickened.

Done!

Store in sterilized jars for up to 3 months.

Serve as a condiment to grilled meats or vegetables or add to shell beans as you cook them for a yummy bakes-bean-like twist!

Seriously, both or these recipes are just fantastic and would make great gifts as that treasure jar you keep in your fridge and pull out to make a weeknight dinner or mundane lunch special!

Cantelope White Gazpacho

Isn't actually white. More of a light shade of apricot, and a color I saw in the sunset minutes after eating this delicious soup!
The lovely melon I used was grown near Carondelet, Illinois and perfumed my kitchen with it's sweet, musky aroma as soon as I cut it open. They say the best melons should be heavy for their size, betraying the amount of water and sugar contained within their tender flesh. The skin should be firm but not rock hard, and should be fragrant when you get your nose up close and take a deep breath. These rules are not hard and firm, as I have picked a bad melon or two in my time (nothing more disappointing than a mealy, mushy watermelon, I tell ya), so trust your instincts and know you're taking a gamble, but one that could pay dividends!
This was my first attempt at white gazpacho. I've seen quite a few recipes for it, and I followed what I determined to be the basics: country bread, blanched almonds, garlic, water, and a smidge of sherry vinegar combined with a fruit (sometimes white grapes) or pale vegetable (generally steamed cauliflower). Never one to stick to basics, I eyed my tender cantelope and imagined it whirled together with the creamy almond/water slurry, it's sweet, musky flavors challenged by the sherry vinegar, at once light and thick and cool.
A late summer sunset, indeed!
To have some fun with contrasting textures, I made a garnish of toasted breadcrumbs and slivered almonds and also salted chopped cucumber. It sent my head spinning and my spoon swirling!

4 cups fresh cantelope, cut into large cubes
2 small or one large clove garlic, roughly chopped
2 small or one large shallot, minced
1 cup cold water
1 cup plus 1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds
1 cup white bread cubes, crusts removed (preferrably a baguette or country bread)
2 tsp. Sherry vinegar
2-3 tsp. agave nectar (depending on the sweetness of your melon)
2 Tbs olive oil
garnish/topping:
1/2 c. large bread crumbs (from the same bread you used for the soup)
1/2 cup cucmber, peeled, seeded and cut small
salt/pepper
spanish smoked paprika (optional)

1. Heat 1 Tbs olive oil over low heat in a small saucepan. Add garlic and cook 2-3 minutes until softened but not browned. Let cool.
2. Add water, shallots, sherry vinegar and almonds to blender. Puree until smooth. Add cooled garlic and oil, melon, and agave. Puree again until smooth. Add remaining Tbs of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Chill for one hour, while you make the garnish.
3. For the garnish: place chopped cucumber in a small bowl and cover with salt. Chill while you make the soup. When you are ready to serve the soup, rinse and drain the cucumbers. In the same saucepan you heated the garlic/oil in, toast the breadcrumbs and almond slivers together, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a pinch of smoked paprika until browned and crunchy.

Pour a generous scoop into a lovely bowl and top with the warm breadcrumb mixture and a sprinkling of cucmber. Amarinated calamari (or bean) salad and a hunk of crusty bread would make excellent serving friends!