Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Sprouts to Spite the Cold

... with flavors brighter than any feeble light the winter sun casts!

Staying indoors too much, saturating my mind-palate with flavors and ideas for foods, feeling mostly well but not my usual sprightly self... it must still be winter. January at that. How to snap out of my half-funk? Vegetables. Clean tasting with textures that challenge. Flavors invoking warm colors and foreign soils. It must be Indian, for what could be brighter than turmeric and ginger? Warmer than mustard seed and chile? Feel cleaner and healthier than steaming basmati rice and cilantro?
While hungrily leafing through Monica Bhide's book, Modern Spice, I found a recipe that brought together not only the flavors I craved, but that would also make excellent use of a bag of Brussels sprouts and a couple of misplaced turnips that had been languishing in my vegetable drawer for longer than I care to admit.
I steamed some basmati, chopped fresh mint and cilantro, and roasted tofu cubes in a paste of chickpea flour and olive oil for a little protein to round out the meal. It all came together in under an hour and filled my bowl and belly with enough warmth to get me through another few days of deep winter.


Brussels Sprouts, Leeks, and Curry Leaves
from Modern Spice

2 Tbs. Vegetable oil
1 tsp. black mustard seeds (not yellow American mustard seeds)
10-15 fresh curry leaves (I didn't have these so I omitted them and added a teaspoon of curry powder instead- not at all the same, but I was in a pinch! next time I'll get the real thing.)
2 whole dried red chilies, broken (I used one fresh chile because that's what I had)
15 Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut into fourths (about 1 pound)
2 medium leeks, white and green parts only, chopped
2 medium turnips, cubed (my addition)
3 Tbsp. chopped toasted peanuts
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. red chile powder
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. salt to start

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil shimmers, add the mustard seeds, cooking until the seeds sizzle and pop. Add the curry leaves (if you are lucky enough to have them), chilies, Brussels sprouts, leeks and turnips, if using.
2. Saute for 5 to 6 minutes, until the vegetables begin to brown.
3. Add the turmeric, chile powder, coriander and salt. Stir thoroughly and cook for another 2 minutes.
4. Add a tablespoon or two of water, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for 8-10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Top with the peanuts and taste for salt (amazingly, I found I didn't need to add any extra salt). Serve over rice.
Delicious!

Side note: when I ate the leftovers the next night I made another of Monica's recipes, these Besan Crepes, which turned out to be the chickpea pancakes of my dreams. I'm dying to make them again to share with my chickpea-lovin' friends so let's make dinner together soon!

Thursday, January 21, 2010


Do I have permission to gloss over the fact that I have not posted in waaaaaaaaaay too long and just pop up a little post here like it was a regular occurrence? Please? I won't even attempt to make excuses about being busy during the holidays or mention that I barely cooked a decent meal the entire month of December (thank you, Trader Joe's soup in a carton, for getting me through the holidays). Fine then, it's settled. Time for a blog post!

Let's start things off with one of the simplest pleasures of winter cooking: roasted vegetables. The same basic treatment can be applied to hardy winter vegetables and fruits and makes for a delicious side or salad topping or soup base. Start with a selection of sweet potatoes, turnips, butternut squash, rutabagas, apples, quince, new potatoes, celery root, yams, carrots, onions... pick a few that look good to you and get to peeling and dicing! Add some winter-y herbs for flavor bonus (rosemary, sage, thyme) if you'd like, but good ol' olive oil and salt and pepper is really all you need.
Here's a basic recipe to get you started.


Sage-Roasted Winter Vegetables

2 purple yams
1 sweet potato
3 medium turnips
1 quince (substitute 1 granny smith apple)
8 - 10 sage leaves
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Peel all vegetables. Cut into 3/4 inch cubes. The more evenly cut the vegetables are, the more evenly they'll cook, this is the only semi-difficult step in this recipe. Place cubed vegetables in a large bowl and set aside.
2. Heat 3 Tbs olive oil over medium-high heat in a small skillet. Test to see if the oil is hot enough by putting a pinch of a sage leaf in. If it sizzles, the oil is ready to fry the sage leaves in. Add the sage leaves to the skillet, 3 or 4 at a time, turning after 30-40 seconds. Continue cooking on the second side for another 30 seconds, then pull from the oil and place on a paper towel-lined plate. Save for later.
3. Pour the now sage infused olive oil over the vegetables in the bow. Add 2-3 tsp. kosher salt and quite a few grinds of fresh pepper. Toss the vegetables in the oil and spread evenly on a baking sheet (lined with parchment or sprayed with pan spray). It is important not to crowd the vegetables or have them piled on top of one another, otherwise you won't achieve the crispy edges and browned skin you desire!
4. Place the pan in a 350 degree preheated oven. I like to put an ovenproof dish filled with about an inch of water in the oven when roasting- I find it gently steams the vegetables so they cook through and you don't end up with a caramelized outside and crunchy inside. Roast for 20-25 minutes, stirring with a spatula after about 15 minutes. Cooking time will vary depending on the size and density of your vegetables. Test with a fork for tenderness.
5. To serve, top with the fried sage leaves, crumbled, and a little more salt and pepper. So good!